tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post3747551481818889223..comments2024-03-19T03:39:15.132-05:00Comments on How About Orange: How to make an industrial pipe floor lampJessica Joneshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10111703670084066670noreply@blogger.comBlogger77125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-29035489125561466012018-04-24T20:09:14.285-05:002018-04-24T20:09:14.285-05:00Hello,
First, thank you to the original author fo...Hello, <br />First, thank you to the original author for detailed specs, design and photographs. Second, thanks for some of the commenters who addressed concerns about potential electrical problems. <br />Having said that, I just built this lamp over the weekend and it came out great. I did make some small changes to the design and made a few mistakes of my own. Here are experiences. <br />1) To address the rough surfaces in the inside of the pipes, I used clear vinyl tubing with O/D of 3/4". This gave a nice path for the wires without the fear of wire damage during install.<br />2) I used a utilitech 3 wire cord with the ground attached to the body of the lamp. A small screw and nut held the ground cable in place. <br />3) I ran 3 full length wires to minimize splicing. <br />4) At the exit point of the wire, I used a 3/4" to 1/2" bushing and attached a wire clamp to it. This made the plug wire "stay in place"<br />5) I used a larger 1 1/4" reducing collar and the rubberized socket, which sits nicely. I haven't glued it in place yet.<br /><br />My mistakes:<br />1) I should have used smaller nipples instead of the 36" pipe with a union. It would have looked great and made it easier to work with.<br />2) I painted the whole lamp (on reflection should have left the black pipe alone. The darn stickers with clear tape was painful to get out.<br />3) Next time I will need to source some used pipes and fittings.<br /><br />Anyway, great project, thanks for such hard work in putting together the instructions.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-3481756862463358522018-04-22T16:37:34.487-05:002018-04-22T16:37:34.487-05:00If you use weatherproof sockets which are rubber.....If you use weatherproof sockets which are rubber... you can wrap the collar of it with a few layers of electrical tape and then it will thread itself into the reducer coupling. Goes in tight... very safe. And they have pigtails as Don said above, so use solder or butt connectors rated for 120volt and shrink tubing. A ground wire attached via clamp to the frame of the lamp you’re making connected to the grounding wire in your electrical box will suffice... you might think it looks bad but I think it adds to the industrial look of it. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-54089337787085665682018-01-25T19:28:28.438-06:002018-01-25T19:28:28.438-06:00I love this lamp, but kinda freaking out about peo...I love this lamp, but kinda freaking out about people's comments on the wiring. I have negative zero experience in electrical.<br /><br />Has anyone built this following the instructions, minus the electrical tape, and not had it catch fire? Uconn22https://www.blogger.com/profile/16215204522463923535noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-85964423180989819432017-09-18T23:42:58.038-05:002017-09-18T23:42:58.038-05:00By Australian wiring standards, this lamp project ...By Australian wiring standards, this lamp project would fail the safety test. Running mains wiring through metal pipe requires an earth wire to be securely fastened to the whole structure in case the active wire short circuits. Secondly, fixing the lamp holders to the metal pipe with electrical tape and the type of terminations used would fail any safety check.Keith McCaffertyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09775433438231035878noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-68472420294899300812017-08-17T06:41:32.599-05:002017-08-17T06:41:32.599-05:00I make pipe lamps for fun and my background is in ...I make pipe lamps for fun and my background is in mechanical engineering and not electrical but here is my take on the safety aspect: I can understand that a lamp made predominantly of<br />an insulating or non conductive material such as wood, ceramic, plastic etc needs only a 2 wire connection but a lamp made of conductive metal certainly needs the addition of an earth wire no matter how well the internal joints of the live and neutral wires have been made.<br />These are the steps that i follow when constructing a pipe lamp:<br />Remove any sharp edges on the inside of the pipe where the wires run.<br />Include an earth wire that is securely fastened to the frame of the lamp.<br />Solder joints, make sure there are no 'spikes' in the soldered joint and then insulate with heat shrink. <br />Switch through the live wire.<br />Secure the wiring where it exits the lamp by means of a gland or simple cable clamp so that it can not pullout.<br />Remember, electricity can KILL.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06435000580938891836noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-45996752499040894212017-05-24T17:34:21.736-05:002017-05-24T17:34:21.736-05:00Correct, as long as you can safely and securely jo...Correct, as long as you can safely and securely join the wires. You can also daisy chain them. So, come into the first blue, splice in a chain segment to the next lamp. Then splice that into the next bulb and another segment for third and so on.<br /><br />Ground ... as long the metal parts that a person may touch are all grounded and it's secure you're good. The reason that most lamps aren't three wire is because they're double insulated.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-23633145174010656882017-05-24T16:26:49.410-05:002017-05-24T16:26:49.410-05:00Thanks, Todd. Just to make sure I understand, then...Thanks, Todd. Just to make sure I understand, then to add the 3rd/4th bulb, would I then run another hot line from the wire nut to the next junction (where i could then have a hot line to the 3rd and 4th bulb)? And do the same with the neutral? Or, am I misunderstanding?<br /><br />Separately, in terms of grounding, I have read some of the comments above and also came across this tutorial on how to ground a lamp. <br /><br />http://www.emfwise.com/how-to-ground-appliances.php<br /><br />This seems to suggest that a grounding option is using a three prong plug and attaching the ground wire to the based of the lamp itself. Does anyone have thoughts on whether that would work with this type of lamp? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01479725182655701534noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-62838951286168937342017-05-23T10:11:22.922-05:002017-05-23T10:11:22.922-05:00A quick example is that you run the hot to the fir...A quick example is that you run the hot to the first bulb. Instead of wiring it directly to the bulb, you run it to a wire nut. If you then run another hot line to the bulb (so far all you did was effectively cut the wire and install a wire nut, but also run a second hot wire to a second bulb, you're parallel. Do the same with ground and neutral. Not hard. Be sure to properly ground everything.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-42311448928931254042017-05-23T07:56:17.186-05:002017-05-23T07:56:17.186-05:00Hi- I came across this blog post (I'm late to ...Hi- I came across this blog post (I'm late to the game!) and wanted to make a similar lamp but with four light sockets instead of three. Does anyone have any insight on how I would need to change the wiring? I researched a little about about wiring in parallel but am just not sure I am totally understanding. If anyone can walk me through the steps that would be much appreciated. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-30057140563089071402016-12-29T16:13:50.978-06:002016-12-29T16:13:50.978-06:00A 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" to 3/4" coupling...A 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" to 3/4" coupling would allow a phenolic lamp base with spring clips to be inserted into the pipe fitting without the use of electrical tape. These are available at Lowes and any electrical supply house. The pipe coupling may need to be ordered from Amazon, McMaster Carr or from a plumbing supply house but they aren't very expensive and readily available. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15084877741987261268noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-59847956172401856972016-12-28T19:49:22.185-06:002016-12-28T19:49:22.185-06:00A great source for finding materials for these pro...A great source for finding materials for these projects is your local Restore (Habitat for Humanit). I recently picked upnejat would have been a couple of hundred dollars worth of steel pipe for $30. Also scored a bunch of copper fittings for a few dollars. An extra bonus is that the stuff is rusty anf in the case of he copper, it has a nice patina.?https://www.blogger.com/profile/12865043318739294257noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-90621565824542045752016-11-25T17:45:20.397-06:002016-11-25T17:45:20.397-06:00For the life of me I can't make sense of the c...For the life of me I can't make sense of the cost estimates just quoted. No way. I made three pipe lights - two wall and one ceiling. I paid less than $20 each plus $5 for vintage barn shades. They look amazing and are super safe.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-32461105788817846962016-11-22T14:22:15.106-06:002016-11-22T14:22:15.106-06:00This looked interesting so I went to Lowes to pric...This looked interesting so I went to Lowes to price the pipe connections and then added them up to a surprising $128.00. Then there is the rest, like light bulbs, wiring, etc. Not sure what someone would sell one of these for but $175 would probably cover the materials and maybe 5 hours to complete. $20 per hour would bring it in around $275-$300.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09804962150542993887noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-23109576942467009392016-08-04T12:05:03.978-05:002016-08-04T12:05:03.978-05:00You do not need to ground a lamp made from metal. ...You do not need to ground a lamp made from metal. And "code" applies to construction, not the manufacture of lamps. There's the UL listing - but that's electrical standards, not code. And I've taken apart & rebuilt PLENTY of lamps in my day with metal bases (I have an affinity for Tiffany glass/replica lamps and not a single one has a ground plug & the socket is not grounded to the chassis or metal base & the wire is pulled through the base. And some of the lamps where I replaced the crappy socket with a better one - are UL Listed.<br /><br />So, while it is opinion, it is based on TONS of experience.<br /><br />If you make proper, insulated connections, you do not need to ground any lamp in order to prevent electrocution.<br /><br />If you want to ground your lamp - knock yourself out. Just be sure to disregard armchair experts histrionically crying from the hills that 1) it's required and 2) it's unsafe if not grounded.<br /><br />It's unsafe if you made improper connections. And then, no ground will help you. You still risk fire, injury or a constantly tripping breaker.<br /><br />Peace out!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15604319511202577941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-56963856743820143162016-08-04T07:36:29.974-05:002016-08-04T07:36:29.974-05:00So... you're not exactly right here. It's ...So... you're not exactly right here. It's funny how often people post their opinion as fact, versus labeling it as their opinion. <br /><br />"Code" depends on where you live, so stating whether something is code generically on a forum like this is a suggestion at best.<br /><br />Using the fact that you see two-prong lamps sold as evidence that "if you build it right" it doesn't need to be grounded is, frankly, silly. If the wiring/socket is double-grounded the chassis doesn't need to be grounded. That's how you get away with two-prongs. Please read up on that.<br /><br />In conclusion, don't spit your beer out. It's not worth it. You should absolutely ground a home built pipe lamp. It would be irresponsible to put others' lives in danger because some guy spit his beer out (or almost did) and assured you that building something "right" (by soldering it - HA!) is sufficient protection, even though "code" most assuredly states otherwise.<br /><br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-52959608042604408912016-08-04T07:20:06.605-05:002016-08-04T07:20:06.605-05:00It is not required to ground this lamp because it&...It is not required to ground this lamp because it's made from metal. Similar pipe lamps & chrome/metal lamps are sold all over the place with 2 prong plugs. How can that be? Because their electrical connections are done CORRECTLY.<br /><br />And umm.... there's no such thing as "code" for building a lamp. LOL I about spit out my beer when I read all of the "not code" comments. Good grief, ya nelly nancies. <br /><br />Seems folks' concerns are internal wires/connections coming loose & making contact with the metal pipes, risking electrocution. Well, the real solution is to ensure your electrical connections are done correctly. You're not going to have a pre-made wiring harness like a commercial lamp manufacturer will have, but you can still wire your lamp a little more securely than is presented here.<br /><br />And that's not a slam against the original poster at all. <br /><br />First - the wires are protected inside the pipes. Not like little gremlins are going up inside your pipe & messing with your electrical connections. So, they're not going to come apart over time, or because the wind blew on it. The risk is that your connections aren't solid in the first place and during assembly, maybe something has come loose. Or, the electrical tape you used (I do agree that is not a good solution at all) came off or was damaged during assembly. So - don't use wire nuts & electrical tape. There are WAY better methods & parts you can use.<br /><br />Second - ever hear of a thing called soldering/solder? Yep - solder your connections & surprise! They can't come apart. And you don't have those bulky wire nuts that don't fit quite nicely inside the pipes.<br /><br />Then, use the way too easy & convenient heat-shrink electrical wire tubing over your soldered connections - and VOILA! You essentially have a non-spliced wire! It's similar to having wire insulation and it is as non-conductive & effective as the original insulation - and electrically correct/appropriate to use. I actually doubled it up, just to be safe. You don't need a heat gun - you can use a butane lighter to shrink the tubing, just move it quickly over the tubing - don't hold it steady in one place.<br /><br />Third - Home Depot & Lowe's sell pre-wired lamp sockets that are encased in rubber. They're pretty heavy duty & the connections are beneath the rubber inside, completely insulated from the metal pipe base. And I mean COMPLETELY insulated in thick rubber.<br /><br />Replace the 1" x 3/4" coupling reducer with a 1 1/4" x 3/4" one for your bulb base. These rubber-encased sockets fit snugly & PERFECTLY inside. Use J-Weld or any other fast-curing epoxy that can bind multiple surfaces to hold the sockets permanently in place.<br /><br />Lastly, use a polarized plug & ensure you don't cross your wires (hot to hot, neutral to neutral) and you're all set.<br /><br />There are videos on youtube where people show you how to build a water valve rotary switch. It's pretty awesome & looks perfect with this lamp. If that's a little too involved for you, put an in-line switch or dimmer in the cord. Home Depot & Lowe's carry those, too. They're made specifically to be used on a cord & work perfectly.<br /><br />If I could post pics of the sockets I used, I would. But I found them right where HD & Lowe's have all of their other plugs & sockets on display.<br /><br />See? This is how you address peoples' questions/concerns & present solutions. Sans hysterics. ;)Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15604319511202577941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-56080858501242473872016-05-19T20:37:18.081-05:002016-05-19T20:37:18.081-05:00Guys, Todd drilled a hole in a piece of metal to a...Guys, Todd drilled a hole in a piece of metal to attach a ground wire and now it's his forum and he's the master of the universeAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05422999819684632090noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-22891490331784381382016-05-19T16:36:40.612-05:002016-05-19T16:36:40.612-05:00Ha ha. No I have to believe you're just trying...Ha ha. No I have to believe you're just trying to have your fun. I'm out. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-20416230103431061292016-05-19T16:19:07.584-05:002016-05-19T16:19:07.584-05:00I had an electrician tell me using a polarized plu...I had an electrician tell me using a polarized plug would prevent shockAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05422999819684632090noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-37365991639192436632016-05-19T16:05:27.717-05:002016-05-19T16:05:27.717-05:00Nope. Not condescending. Just not sure how else to...Nope. Not condescending. Just not sure how else to repeat what's already been said! The entire point of grounding the pipe is to carry away stray electrical currents. That's the ONLY point of any ground. Why else would I be tapping a hole and screwing the ground to the chassis? Or an electrical box? The only way any device can get away with a two pronged plug is by having it double insulated.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-57396720215852195572016-05-19T15:56:22.527-05:002016-05-19T15:56:22.527-05:00Yea I have read the comments but no one mentioned ...Yea I have read the comments but no one mentioned what Im asking hence my question. So a 3 prong plug coming from the wall and the ground wire screwed into the frame at any point should take the current away from the frame should a wire be exposed, correct? The right info is much more important than being condescending since this is a diy project.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05422999819684632090noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-68281753882396799542016-05-19T15:31:16.213-05:002016-05-19T15:31:16.213-05:00We've been talking about grounding HEAVILY, so...We've been talking about grounding HEAVILY, so I suggest you read the comments above. Yes, ground the pipe.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-7612964403006944282016-05-19T15:10:29.894-05:002016-05-19T15:10:29.894-05:00I have a grounding question. I have a basic unders...I have a grounding question. I have a basic understanding of electricity as ive properly wires many switches and outlets to code in the U.S. This will be my first lamp and Im wondering if you could come from the outlet with a 3 prong and have the ground wire connected to a ground screw somewhere on the metal. It seems like the issue is a wire coming loose and touching the inside of the piping. With my odea wouldnt the current then leave the lamp through the grounding wire? And if so wouldnt the bulb sockets not need to be grounded?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05422999819684632090noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-15416848100207744722016-04-28T08:30:20.150-05:002016-04-28T08:30:20.150-05:00Popping in to say that I really love the comment s...Popping in to say that I really love the comment section on this post in particular. It's not a tutorial I wrote myself, and electrical wiring is not something I know much about. What I do know is this lamp is cool, and if people can make one themselves and save a lot of money, awesome! So I appreciate both the cautions for safety and the expertise from the folks who are offering wonderful suggestions to clarify or improve this so more people can make it. You guys are the best!Jessica Joneshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10111703670084066670noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7556794318856646559.post-48650766230222368442016-04-28T04:19:50.750-05:002016-04-28T04:19:50.750-05:00You know, "unknown", please don't po...You know, "unknown", please don't post opinions like this as fact. There's been plenty of discussion here about grounding this light. There's nothing a licensed electrician learns in class or in his apprenticeship that better qualifies him to drill, tap and screw a ground wire to a pipe than anyone else. If you want to add to the discussion in such a way that helps people fine, but "don't do this yourself" is simply not valid advice.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16283922186811327817noreply@blogger.com